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Brutto Anatroccolo

Usually in a trattoria the more the staff treats the customer badly, the better is the food. It’s a certified law, something every guidebook should mention and the blatant example would be Il Brutto Anatroccolo. You just have to set foot in the restaurant and look around to understand what you’re going to find: here you don’t drink Coca Cola, no reservation is accepted and there are no elaborate dishes. Take it or leave it.

The restaurant is located in La Clinica walls, the historical meeting place of the Seventies movements, then in 1982 the three partners Daniele, Alberto and Alvar (like Alvar Aalto architect) turned it into the trattoria we all know, keeping the resistance spirit on the walls and at heart. Here survives the “poor” Milanese food: cotoletta, ossobuco, peasant liver, yellow risotto and what legends claim to be the best tiramisù in town.

Here survives the spirit of Old Milan, that crazy mix between surly and familiar which is the trademark of the city. Most of all, here survives a meeting place for students, workmen, and old people of the neighborhood – a place where time, hurry and Coca Cola don’t exist. And that’s how we like it.

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