When a cemetery is an open-air museum, walking through the tombstones can also become a constructive experience.
There’s no way to avoid it: sooner or later, we are all going to die. It’s no big consolation, but people buried at Cimitero Monumentale are certainly living in the Beverly Hills of the Upside Down. As one might guess from its name and exclusive everlasting beds, the Monumental Cemetery is a cemetery like no others. Few cities can boast a place so grim and spectacular at the same time. This huge eclectic complex was designed by architect Carlo Maciachini and officially inaugurated on January 1st, 1867. Soon the bodies of many illustrious (adopted) Milanese citizens were buried or transferred here – among them Alessandro Manzoni, Bruno Munari and Salvatore Quasimodo. However, the real stars of the cemetery – no offense to the otherworld VIPs – are the graves, the monuments of the Monumental, a sort of marble matrioska.
Photo by Alice Gemignani
If we want to name-drop some architects and sculptors who have made Cimitero Monumentale the wonder it is today, we should start with one of the most famous of its time: Adolfo Wildt, known as “the last of symbolists” for his ethereal sculptures, almost immaterial, perfectly suiting the Monumentale. In 1929 Wildt created “Affetto Nel Dolore” (Love in Pain), depicting two souls transfiguring from the bodily realm to the “Realm of Armony”, as Wildt himself called it. If you’re not too sensitive, go and see “Ultimo Bacio” (Last Kiss) by Emilio Quadrelli, probably the most beautiful sculpture at the Cemetery, that decorates Volonté-Vezzoli’s grave. All literature lovers shouldn’t forget to step by Alessandro Manzoni’s grave, which is located at the center of Famedio, a hall inscribed with all the names of famous deceased Milanese citizens – be they buried or not in the Monumental Cemetery.
Photo by Alice Gemignani
Another archi-sculptor who contributed to the beauty of the cemetery is Enrico Butti, author of the spectacular Isabella Casati and Besenzanica family’s graves. Art Nouveau lovers shouldn’t miss out on Bocconi and Origgi’s niches, both realized by architect Giuseppe Boni and adorned by sculptor Orazio Grossoni. The most spectacular niche is probably Bernocchi’s, entirely sculpted by Castiglioni with via crucis images – Castiglioni also decorated Edicola Girola and Edicola Falck. Equally spectacular, despite the different style, is Edicola Borletti, built between 1930 and 1931 by Gio Ponti.
Photo by Alice Gemignani
Among the most fascinating stories of the cemetery, there’s certainly Umberto Fabé’s, one of the first Italian plane pilot and, at his times, one of the youngest. He died at 24 because of an accident and Enrico Pancera sculpted its grave with the body of a young man who tries to take off with a helix but is held back by the tentacles of a Medusa. The headstone is engraved with the lines D’Annunzio dedicated to the pilot. One last thing not to miss out: the Last Supper sculpture set on the Campari’s family grave, who invented the Aperitivo: probably a hint that things could have been different if only they had a Last Aperitivo before Supper?
Photo by Alice Gemignani
Cimitero Monumentale
Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale, Milano
☎︎ 02 8844 1274
Open
Tue-Sun 8–18
Metro M5 Monumentale
Tram 10, 12, 14 P.le Cimitero Monumentale Via Bramante
